Good day for surveying - 2 April

Today was heavenly compared to yesterday. The temperatures were only around 0F and there was only the slightest breeze with no blowing snow. We had breakfast, checked our gear, put in a few more supplies, and headed out to start Line #2. There were no clouds in the sky and the sun felt warm. We started at the 100m mark and within about 15 minutes we were at the 200m mark. It was like night and day comparing to the day before. Without the wind, I could walk with 25m of tape measure behind me following me on the ground to the next station. Robert and I were in awe at how simple it had all become without that blowing wind. At about the 300m mark Nick Hughes came out to help and that made things go really fast. Near the 500 m mark we started to cross our first ridge (see Robert’s camera photos). With three of us, we were able to get over it pretty well so we were able to actually take a few minutes to get a good look at the ice at the ridge including the block sizes and the snow. On the other side was a wide smooth spot with frost flowers surrounded with their own little sastrugi snow drift (10cm scale). We tried to reach the bottom of the ice with our 3 foot length auger but never got there. The ice chippings were damp but we never hit water which felt odd because usually frost flower grow on top of thin black ice formed by a new lead but this was early spring so the ice was at its maximum. We crossed the second ridge on the other side and realized that this must be a lead that opened but then there was shearing so ridges formed on either side of the lead. On the other side the terrain smoothed out again and we were at the 900m mark when our two German colleagues joined us to help. At the end we put the 1000m mark and two red bags to mark it as Line #2. We then headed back to the center pole to start Line #3. Within an hour we had that surveyed out to the 500m pole thanks to all the help and headed back for lunch. So basically we managed 1500m of survey in the time it took us to do 500m the day before. Weather and the amount help made a huge difference.

At lunch (and the meals here by the way are just outstanding – see Robert’s journal), Jackie had mentioned that they saw lots of lead activity while in the helicopter, so our team should keep an eye out for any opening leads. It was like a premonition because we found one while preparing the 600 m mark. I had taken the snow mobile around to the right of the transect in search of a way to get around the ridge. I saw an opening but as I got closer I realized why. A lead had just opened up. It must have been because there was this crystal clear blue water about 1m wide in these 0F temperatures. With no wind, after three days of hard blowing, the ice started to move with all the momentum and stress it had built up. This was only my second day ever on a snow mobile so I decided to get the other two fellows on my team (Nick and Robert – the two German fellows had some duties back in Prudhoe to tend to their EM bird so they did not join us after lunch). As I drove the snow mobile back, I crossed another crack that was just starting to open (about 10 cm wide). I felt confident enough to cross that but I was wondering how far these things would open so I was glad to be on the camp side of this activity. I got Nick and Robert and we walked back to the two leads. When we reached the big one, we saw that it already had a few centimeters of ice (and hence my initial guess that I must have come across it just as it was forming). We radioed the location and they said thanks and we proceeded. I went around the ridge from the left and carefully kept an eye on the direction and activity of the lead. We surveyed up to 700m but the next mark was on the other side. We decided to call in again and this time I made the call and chatted with Jackie. She recommended (as Robert had also suggested) to stop the line there for today and head back tomorrow to check activity and assess at that point. Nick jumped across the lead and we put in the 725 flag and then we marked two additional flags on either side of the lead with measurements. The flags were placed at 715 and 717 m with a measure of 80cm opening. Tomorrow we’ll go back and measure that length again and look at the ice conditions. If they have stabilized, we will find a narrow spot to cross the lead and finish the line.


We called it in and told base camp we were returning to start up on the next line. We went back to get some more stakes and headed out to survey Line #6. It took about 2 hours to get that line done across the camp’s multi-year floe. The longest work was getting the 1000m pole and marking the end with the bags. We had run out of red bags so Nick took the snow mobile back to get two more while Robert and I finished filling bags. We finished the end marks, took some pictures and headed back about 16:30 calling it a successful day with almost 3km (or half the thickness array) surveyed and all but one line (and the little bit of Line #3) completed. We knew it was quitting time because between the 700m and 900m of Line #6 each of us had tripped walking backwards so we knew we were getting tired. We headed back, stored the auger in the generator hut, sorted out the sled and started to log things in for the day. We debriefed and chatted about strategy for the next day with Jackie, Jenny, and Bruce.